Original Article: http://dartreview.com/archives/2002/05/22/restaurant_review_simon_pearce.php
Wednesday, May 22, 2002
Despite many suggestions for which establishments should be included in my endeavor to review a representative range of restaurants within a reasonable distance of Hanover, the name Simon Pearce persisted at the top or near the top of everyone's list.
With these recommendations as my only guide, we began our drive to Quechee, Vermont, one Sunday evening. The drive alone made the trip worthwhile. If time permits, a pleasant loop follows the White River upstream then cuts across the Appalachian Trail to Quechee and returns to Hanover via U.S. Highway 4. The rivers swell this clear early spring evening as the maple syrup farms wind down operations for another year. We arrive early in Quechee and drive down to the natural wonder that is the Quechee Gorge. It is no Grand Canyon, but considering the size of Vermont, it is not too shabby. Peering over the bridge into the gorge is breathtaking, a pleasant diversion for the pre-dinner empty stomach.
Simon Pearce emigrated from Ireland to Quechee in 1981. He finished restoration of the historic local mill, which once produced more woolen flannel baby clothes than any other mill in the country. Now his glassblowing and pottery works and showroom fill the brick walls along the picturesque Ottauquechee River. He added a restaurant in 1985.
We enter, passing displays of recent glass creations. The hostess escorts us to what she called 'a very nice table.' Indeed, her words are an understatement. True to form, glass is the predominant feature, although not the blown variety. Glass windows make up the walls of the room and reveal the spectacular location of the dining area. The windows on three sides look out over the Ottauquechee River, above which perches the restaurant. To the West, the peaceful backwaters of the river's millpond glisten in a straight line from the restaurant to the point where the sun sets over the Green Mountains. To the East, the waters break violently over the falls and crash onto the jagged granite twenty yards below. Before the waters escape downstream, a turbine converts the unseen power of the clear waters into the mechanical energy that heats the glassblowing furnaces. Diners can enjoy this dichotomy as they peruse the book length wine list and enjoy the traditional French loaf or the whole grain Ballymaloe (one of the several Irish accents that permeate the menu). Somewhere along the fine line between the two, before the waters escape downstream, a turbine converts the unseen power of the clear waters into the mechanical energy that heats the glassblowing furnaces.
Our appetizers arrive—a bratwurst dish and a salmon dish. Seeing bratwurst and sauerkraut as an appetizer at a gourmet restaurant begs further investigation. The small pieces of the sausage resting on champagne sauerkraut produce a nice twist on a traditionally 'meat-and-potatoes' sort of dish, but if you do not like the components normally, you will probably not enjoy this combination much more. Even more enjoyable is the smoked salmon. I slice off piece after piece and pull each through the encircling line of drizzled lime syrup until nothing remains.
After a brief interlude, the salad course commences. Midway through trying to name the five varieties of fresh, crunchy nuts liberally mixed into my scrumptious 'Baby Spinach Salad with Maytag Blue Cheese, Spiced Nuts and Balsamic Vinaigrette,' I glance out to notice a rope dangling from the covered bridge high above the whitewater formed from the falls. The rope seems a more likely instrument of death than of amusement; however, our waitress confirms that people actually do swing off of it into the uncertain depths below.
'Once someone didn't realize the physics involved, and instead of swinging out and dropping off on the backswing, he just let go on the way out, colliding with the rock wall on the other side,' she said. 'Luckily, we saw him from here and called help.'
Our meals are nearly as impressive as the waterfall outside. The 'Horseradish Crusted Cod with Crispy Leeks and Herb Mashed Potatoes' make a perfect combination. The light and crispy breading surrounds the piping, moist cod filet. The fish sits atop a mound of delicately seasoned mashed potatoes. The leeks form the edge of the dish.
My vegetarian dish disappoints me at first for its blandness, but the fault falls with my choice more than with the quality of the meal itself. I rarely choose a meatless entrée and probably had read too much into the description of my bean ravioli with cranberry accented sauce selection. The dish comes as advertised and consists of high quality ingredients: fresh beans, homemade ravioli, and a subtle sauce. The simplicity of the combination is its strength. My choice betrays my mood tonight, for I want something zestier. These options certainly abound in dishes such as 'Crisp Roast Duckling with Shiitake Ginger Sauce or Mango Chutney Sauce' and 'Black Trumpet Crusted Lamb Loin with Melted Leeks and Cabbage Confit.'
A true test of a restaurant's portions is how one feels when the waitress brings the dessert menu. After four full courses, I feel very satisfied but not at all stuffed. Simon Pearce finishes strong with a rounded selection of desserts and after dinner drinks. The daily changing flavors of homemade ice cream in a sundae make a nice choice, but several more intricate options are available. As a tribute to the owner's Irish roots, a cup of the Irish coffee finishes the meal nicely.
The service never fails to appear at the proper moment. Our waitress offers sound advice when asked and even subtle encouragement when prompted: after ambitiously ordering two appetizers, I questioned our ability to finish the entire meal. She responded, 'Just pace yourself, and you'll be fine.' The real mark of the service is that it is never intrusive at all. Dishes appear without breaking up conversation or window-gazing. Another aspect is the menu itself, which fills only one page. It offers several appetizers, several salads, and eight to ten entrees. The simplicity makes for plenty of choice without the confusion of an overly large menu.
Simon Pearce can be made as fancy or as low-key as you wish. The dress code succinctly states, 'Jacket and tie not required.' One can eat expensively or fairly moderately. But the class and the natural beauty do not fluctuate. The restaurant opens daily for dinner from six to nine P.M. with entrees ranging in price from $18.50 to $28.00. Lunch is also served from 11:30 to 2:45 and offers a good-looking menu and more reasonable prices—$8.75 - $14.50. I recommend reservations because Simon Pearce is one of the most popular restaurants in Vermont. Its reputation has earned accolades from the New York Times and Gourmet Magazine, and its special 'wine-tasting dinners' throughout the winter months and award-winning wine list offer another interesting dining experience.
The food preparation, especially in the combinations and presentation, is certainly gourmet, but classic New England simplicity in the service, ingredients, and setting keeps everything as honest and pure as the fresh water foaming to the East and the warm sun mellowing to the West.